Ciao a tutti,
ho un dubbio che mi assale e volevo sapere se qualcuno può aiutarmi,
ho letto che lo squalane sotto l'azione degli UV si trasforma in un composto comedogeno (riporto il testo):
Comedogenicity of squalene monohydroperoxide in the skin after topical application.
Department of Toxicology, Safety Research Center, Yakult Central Institute for Microbiological Research, Tokyo, Japan.
The comedogenicity of squalene peroxides was examined on the rabbit ear skin after topical application of squalene-monohydroperoxide (Sq-OOH), the initial product when squalene was irradiated with UV-A. Since comedogenic products from UV-irradiated squalene were extracted with methanol solution, we isolated Sq-OOH by reverse-phased HPLC with a methanol mobile phase solvent. The degree of comedogenic reaction induced by Sq-OOH was higher than that of well-known comedogenic cosmetic ingredients. Unlike two other mono-peroxides, tert-butyl hydroperoxide and cumene-mono-hydroperoxide, Sq-OOH induced comedo-formation in the rabbit ear skin. However, the comedogenicity of reduced Sq-OOH, squalene-hydroxide (Sq-OH) and squalene itself was lower than that of Sq-OOH. These results indicate that Sq-OOH is a potent comedogenic mono-hydroperoxide chemical to rabbit skin.
volevo sapere se secondo voi bisogna evitare le creme che lo contengono in estate, oppure se fa venire comedoni solo ai conigli e ai topi.
Ciao a tutti
Squalane: comedogeno?
Moderatore: Erica Congiu
Re: Squalane: comedogeno?
drinetto ha scritto:Ciao a tutti,
ho un dubbio che mi assale e volevo sapere se qualcuno può aiutarmi,
ho letto che lo squalane sotto l'azione degli UV si trasforma in un composto comedogeno (riporto il testo):
Comedogenicity of squalene monohydroperoxide in the skin after topical application.
Department of Toxicology, Safety Research Center, Yakult Central Institute for Microbiological Research, Tokyo, Japan.
The comedogenicity of squalene peroxides was examined on the rabbit ear skin after topical application of squalene-monohydroperoxide (Sq-OOH), the initial product when squalene was irradiated with UV-A. Since comedogenic products from UV-irradiated squalene were extracted with methanol solution, we isolated Sq-OOH by reverse-phased HPLC with a methanol mobile phase solvent. The degree of comedogenic reaction induced by Sq-OOH was higher than that of well-known comedogenic cosmetic ingredients. Unlike two other mono-peroxides, tert-butyl hydroperoxide and cumene-mono-hydroperoxide, Sq-OOH induced comedo-formation in the rabbit ear skin. However, the comedogenicity of reduced Sq-OOH, squalene-hydroxide (Sq-OH) and squalene itself was lower than that of Sq-OOH. These results indicate that Sq-OOH is a potent comedogenic mono-hydroperoxide chemical to rabbit skin.
volevo sapere se secondo voi bisogna evitare le creme che lo contengono in estate, oppure se fa venire comedoni solo ai conigli e ai topi.
Ciao a tutti
Ciao drinetto
attenzione stai parlando di due cose tra loro loro molto diverse:
lo squalane è un idrocarburo saturo ( C30H62) mentre lo squalene è un poliinsaturo (C30H50) per cui soggetto ad ossidazione
In cosmesi si usa di norma lo squalano che deriva dall'insaponificabile di oliva previa idrogenazione.
La sostanza comedogenica è lo squalene e non lo squalano
Ciao Biopietro